I grew up on the photographs of Jeff Divine. They helped shaped my idea of what surfing is, and what surfing means. In his 50 years of deep immersion, he...

The T. Adler Books catalogue covers all sorts of topics, but the bulk of the books are about climbing and surfing. The first title I came across was “Pre-War Surfing...

In the Burleigh Heads carpark, amid board-topped station wagons and zinc-covered noses, I met Derek Hynd. Derek was a renowned Aussie surf journalist whose profiles, essays, and tour dispatches I...

Chas Smith is the author of “Welcome To Paradise, Now Go To Hell” and “Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing’s Greatest Love Affair.” He and Derek Rielly entertain...

Jack McCoy taught me things. His early films—“Stormriders,” “Kong’s Island”—gave me a glimpse into the Neverland that is the Australian surf scene. “The Performers” romanticized the pro surfer. Rabbit was...

Birdwell Beach Britches presents Jamie Brisick, author of newly published "Dazzling Blue", and William Finnegan, Pulitzer-prize winning author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, in a discussion about surfing, writing,...

A friend passed along a copy of “In Waves” by AJ Dungo and I ingested it in a single sitting, crying more than once. It’s a graphic novel, or more...

A lot happens on the Instagram feed @surfcore2001. Shane Herring banging the lip. Luke Egan heaving a rail sandwich. Tom Curren, circa The Search, gliding through a giant barrel. It...

By leaving…he must have thought he could get rid of his past, that with no past, no history, and thus no shame, he could try on all the styles and...

There’s the Kyle Field I know from the surf, the post-surf coffee, the banter about waves, music, art, books, the curse/blessing of life in Los Angeles. And then there is...

—You pull into the Malibu parking lot and from out of an exiting car comes a hand passing you a parking pass. That’s become the unspoken code at Malibu. We...

Eight musicians, sixteen surfers, three oceans—“Self-Discovery for Social Survival” is a collaborative surf and music film directed by Chris Gentile and produced by Brooklyn-based record label Mexican Summer. Gentile owns...

Photographer Jimmy Metyko was born and raised in Texas. But in his childhood and teens he traveled often, thanks to his globetrotting parents.           “My father...

45-year-old Devon Howard’s cross-stepping, side-slipping, hard-carving, and elegant nose-riding is a joy to watch. I first encountered it a couple decades ago at Cardiff Reef in North County San Diego....

I was introduced to the dream of Indo even before I started surfing. In a mid-‘70s issue of Skateboarder magazine I saw pictures of Uluwatu, a concrete ditch where stringy...